Why a small backyard flock needs close attention

Keeping a few hens for eggs or companionship is one of the most rewarding parts of garden life. But a small flock can lull you into a false sense of security. Because you see your birds every day, subtle changes — a drop in egg numbers, a pale comb, a slight wheeze — can slip under the radar. Chickens are prey animals and instinctively hide illness until they are quite unwell. The good news is that most common problems are prevented by three simple things: fresh bedding, clean water and a regular hands-on health check.

Start with a dry, well-ventilated coop

Damp and ammonia are the enemies of healthy hens. Ammonia from droppings irritates eyes and respiratory tracts, and damp bedding encourages mould and mites. Clean out the coop weekly, and more often in warm weather. Use dust-extracted wood shavings or hemp bedding rather than straw, which goes mouldy quickly and can harbour red mite. Make sure the coop has ventilation at high level but no draught at bird level. Perches should be wide and flat, around 2.5 to 4 cm across, with rounded edges. Allow 20–25 cm of perch space per hen. Provide one nest box for every four or five birds, keep it clean, and collect eggs daily.

• Remove wet bedding from under perches every morning.
• Replace all bedding weekly, or twice weekly in summer.
• Check crevices and perch ends with a torch for red mite.

Fresh water and the right ration

Clean water is non-negotiable. Change it daily, and scrub drinkers weekly with a bottle brush. In hot weather, refresh water twice a day. Raise drinkers on blocks to reduce droppings contamination. Feed a balanced layers' pellet or mash as the main diet — around 120–150 g per hen per day. Treats such as corn, greens or mealworms should be no more than a small handful per hen, given late afternoon. Too many treats dilute protein and lead to obesity and egg problems. Always provide mixed poultry grit and crushed oyster shell in separate hoppers. Grit helps digestion; oyster shell provides calcium for strong shells. Without it, hens may lay soft-shelled eggs or become egg-bound. Do not add supplements unless your vet advises it.

Quick weekly health checks

Pick up each hen once a week. It takes two minutes per bird and helps you spot issues early.

• Eyes: bright, clear, no discharge or swelling.
• Comb and wattles: red and plump, except when moulting or broody. Pale, purple or blue tinges need attention.
• Nostrils: clean and dry.
• Crop: full at night, empty first thing. A squishy or hard crop that stays full could mean sour crop or impaction.
• Vent: clean, moist, no redness or prolapse. Check for lice eggs — clusters at the feather base — or mites.
• Legs and feet: scales flat, no raised crusty patches (scaly leg mite). Look for bumblefoot, a black scab on the sole.
• Weight: feel the breastbone. A sharp keel means weight loss.
• Droppings: normal is brown with a white cap. Blood, yellow or watery droppings need investigation.

Common problems and how to nip them in the bud

Red mite is the most common hidden enemy. It lives in coop cracks, feeds on birds at night and causes anaemia. Signs include hens reluctant to roost, pale combs and tiny red or grey specks. Treat the coop thoroughly with a poultry-safe acaricide, repeating after seven days. Lice are straw-coloured insects with eggs at the feather base; use a licensed lice powder. Scaly leg mite raises the scales on legs and feet — treat with petroleum jelly or a vet-recommended product. Respiratory infections show as wheezing, sneezing or a runny nose. Isolate the bird and call your vet, as some diseases are notifiable. Egg peritonitis causes a hunched hen with a swollen abdomen, often off food; veterinary care is needed. Prolapse requires a quiet, clean, isolated hen and a vet visit. Worms cause weight loss, pale eggs and diarrhoea; worm routinely or based on faecal testing. Never use a product not licensed for poultry, and always observe egg withdrawal periods.

Daily habits for a thriving flock

Start each morning with a quick headcount and a look at behaviour. Are all birds up, eating and active? Any sitting apart? Then refresh water and check feeders. In the evening, collect eggs, close the coop and check bedding. Keep a simple notebook of egg numbers, moults and any treatments. Quarantine any new bird for at least two weeks. Reduce stress with shade, dust baths and places to hide. Chickens thrive on routine and space — give them at least one square metre per bird in the run, more if possible. With consistent care, your small flock will reward you with healthy eggs and endless garden entertainment.